Huanuco to Cerro de Pasco. 105 kms. 2611 metres of climbing, summit 4341 metres.The biggest stage of the tour.

Today is listed as the hardest day on the entire tour, and it lived up to all my expectations.

My eating and sleeping is on the mend and I was ready to get back on the bike. The photos are in reverse order because I'm so stuffed after today's ride, its the best I can do when you arrive in a hotel thinking you'll never ever get to use of their fingers again.

My Garmin computer shows the ETA into town, the time of day, the amount of climbing and current altitude. I took the photo with about 3 kms to go. So how did the day pan out?

We rolled out of Huanuco after 8.15 am and we all stayed together for about 5 kms then it split apart. My goal was to complete the day so I chose people who I thought I would  be comfortable to ride with. There was Theo and his wife, toas, Buck and Jurg. Barry joined us later on, I think he was chatting to other riders behind.

The first part of the ride took us for 60 kms of climbing through small villages with people waving and calling out the only English word they know, 'gringo'. At least they don't call out to me like they do back home. We followed the river all the way to the turn off which would take us on the dirt road for the rest of the day. We were now at 3200 metres and still had over 1000 metres to climb on dirt road.

The lunch truck was at the start of the dirt road and they had brown bread which I had requested earlier. So happy to stop eating that white bread for a while. After 2 large sandwiches Buck and I were on our way again.

My first sighting of an Alpaca on the trip on the dirt road to Cerro de Pasco.

 The photo above shows the lunch truck stuck in a trench. We came across the truck late in the afternoon and this was not the fault of the driver. Like usual another vehicle came to close and he had to go as close as he could to the side of the road. Shit happens as they say. They wrangled up all the locals, tied a rope to the front and dragged the truck out. Human power will always win out in the end.  We continued on along the dusty rocky road through ravines with fast flowing waters and mountains that hung over our heads. It was a super day but damn tough.

 That's my good mate Buck coming up through the ravine.

 As we were riding between the mountains we noticed religious shrine in no mans land. Obvious it was of Catholic domination.

As we continued on we came across a family celebrating a pre wedding event. The groom was present, the truck with all the presents and all the family.  Man did they get some nice stuff. I had a dance with mama and was offered a drink a beer from her bottle. I kindly refused.  The photos below are of some of the people at the party.

 Every part needs a band.

As the afternoon was getting on we were now getting very cold. We we kept climbing the switchback which wouldn't stop going higher and higher. I was getting tired and so was Buck. Barry rode ahead and left us for dead.

By the time we reached the summit it was freezing, my fingers were numb, my legs were ice and all I wanted to do was to get to the hotel and have a hot shower. We made it to the hotel found a room and had a hot shower. It was now 5.30 pm.  Whilst having the shower my fingers felt like they were burning with pain of hot water running over them. It took me a good hour to thaw out. 

For dinner Barry went down early and ordered his meal, Buck and I went down at 7 pm and ate as much as we could consider how buggered we were. After dinner it was straight back to the room, do my story, and go to sleep. 

I have no idea of tomorrow's ride, but I don't care.  I finished the hardest stage of the tour so I'm pretty happy right now.  No internet tomorrow because of bush camping.  Can't wait for that one.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Rest Day in Huanuco and what a fantastic day. National Police Day.

If you sleep, eat, drink well, you will feel on top of the world, or maybe on top of the Andes Mountains.

Well I tick all the above and now feel great.  I had a good breakfast and went outside to greet the morning and to watch the celebrations of the National Police Day Ceremony in the Square right outside my hotel. The ceremony was just fantastic and I got the chance to get up close and personal to all the officers taking part in the celebrations.

The photos below were taken today.

 One of my cycling friends from the tour Jeanette who wanted to have her photo taken with men in uniforms.

 From the photo above I think I chose the wrong career.

 I never get bored watching these ceremonies all around the world. National Police Day is a huge event in Peru and I'm so happy to be in Huanuco to enjoy it.

 All sections of the armed services took part in the National Day parade.

Part of the ceremony was to celebrate the patron of the Police I think is Sister Maria or Rosa. Senior police and dignitaries took part in carry the statue around the square and out of the area. With the police band playing, mounted police, police dogs, guns going off, it was fantastic.

I took a lot more video all of which will be put together with the Gopro clips I've been taking to make one hell of a production.

After the ceremony I caught a tuk tuk to Plaza Real a new complex in town with James. The cost of the taxi 2 sol for both of us.  That's less than $1 AUS.  I didn't even consider bargaining at that price. It has all the modern shops and eating franchise outlets. We had a nice meal, bought some extras for later on in the evening whilst watching TV, and a nice slab of cake. I'm on holiday and don't have to worry about food going to MY hips. I paid the same price for the return trip. I can hear my cycling buddy Len saying, 'you tight ass',

I haven't received the course for tomorrow, but the word is that it's the Queen stage of the tour, we climb from 1800 metres to 4200 metres. To all my cycling friends, it's not about the climbing, it's all about the altitude.

I'm staying in a hotel tomorrow night and I intend to get back on the bike tomorrow and just take it easy. Should be a walk in the park.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Back from the high country and suffered like a dog. 4 days rolled up into 1.

Bush camp PN Huascaran. 62 kms, Paved 33%, 982 metres climbing, summit 4845 metres. Not a good day.

I didn't sleep that well last night, but at least I was warm in my tent. Breakfast was at 8am to avoid the chill of the morning. I took some nice photos of the surrounding countryside before we headed off at 9am. As soon as we left I knew something was wrong. I had no power in my legs and my heart rate was at 133 Bpm. I think the altitude was taking it's toll on me.

No matter how much I struggled, people were passing me in droves. I was the last person on the road and I couldn't go any further. I decided to stop a vehicle on one of the climbs and he allowed me put my bike in the ute and get a lift to the turn off. I thanked his so much for helping me out. I then took the road to lunch and still had one more climb that would take me to over 4800 metres. I just couldn't understand how bad I was going. I had a dull headache all morning.

 This lovely lady took time out of her chores to make us a cup of coffee. I love their smiles.

 That's Barry and the truck on the way to reaching the bush camp at 4,200 metres.

The majestic snow capped mountain can be seen just over the roof of the truck.

The photo above is of an ancient Inca ruins located high in the Andean mountains.

When I reached lunch I decided to pull the pin on the rest of the ride. It's stupid to push yourself for no good reason.

The cyclists started arriving for lunch and I sat in the truck to try and keep warm. I was freezing cold and shaking. After everyone had their lunch and headed off, we started to drive towards the finish line. We had to stop many times to see if the riders were happy to continue or get on the truck. By the time we reached the summit it was snowing. I'm so happy with my decision to call it quits at the lunch stop.

Shortly after the summit we hit the pavement for the final 25 kms to the bush camp. It was raining and miserable and I could see the cyclists were freezing and wet. We stopped at a road side workers compound because we saw 2 bikes which was rather odd. We found out it was Jeanette and Dermot. Jeanette was suffering from the coldness and could go no further. We put some more bikes on the roof of the fire engine and headed for camp.

We arrived at camp around 4.30 pm where I quickly went about putting up the tent and getting warm. Today I got to see some amazing mountains and incredible roads to ride on, unfortunately the altitude was not kind to me. Tomorrow we are going to do it all again.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Huallanca to Bush camp Jivia. 70 kms, 39% paved, 1100 metres climbing, summit 4000 metres. A day to ride the truck.

I don't know what's wrong with me but last night I slept in a way that can only be described as 'shit'. I tossed and turned all night and no matter what position I was in, I couldn't nod off. I woke up like I just went 12 rounds with Muhammad Ali, and lost.

I went and saw the Dr on the tour and spoke about a couple of issues with her and she decided that I should take the next 2 days off and enjoy the rest day on Saturday. I'm not eating well, not sleeping well, and feeling stuffed. So it's riding the fire engine today.

We rolled out of camp at 8.30 am and the first part travelled along a beautiful river running over rocks and meandering through old villages made of mud and sticks. The people wear beautiful coloured clothing and fancy hats. They walk with their donkeys in tow and even the pigs walk behind their masters. They certainly breed them different in this part of the world. I also noticed as we drove along the top of the mountain how friendly the locals are in these small villages, waving to us and saying, 'Hola', which is hello of course in English. I'm learning Spanish very slowly.

 The photo above is myself, Barry, Buck and Jurg. 3 of the nicest people you could ever meet. We were staying on the side of the road nestled to an old abandoned home. So in the morning everyone wants to toot their horns at the gringos sleeping in their tents. Not happy to hear that at 4.50 am today.

I took the above photo yesterday as climbed close to heaven in the Andes. The snow covered peaks around every corner is so amazing to see.

Just a photo of the roads we've been riding on over the past few days.

We made it to the lunch stop and Robert the driver decided to take a side track to see the Huanuca Pampa and old Inca ruin. This may not be as flash as the might Machu Picchu we are going to see in 3 weeks, but it certianly is spectacular. We were told not many people get to see this site because it's located so far off the beaten track. The road we travelled along today was another day of Andean magic. We could see over the crests of mountains reaching over 5000 metres. With their snow capped peaks, sharp rock faces, colours that kept changing as we got higher and higher in the afternoon sun.

Yeh, it would have been better in the truck riding this section, but this old body says rest, and then rest it will be.

We rolled into a small town of Jivia and found a nice campsite near the river. I got the best campsite and made sure my good mates, Barry, Buck and Jurg got to camp nearby. I'm right next to an old house which I told the boys was listed under UNESCO, so you can't move the rocks. They didn't listen to me, and the photo shows the 4 old men doing nothing like usual.

I'm riding the truck again tomorrow, as we head for the town Huanuco, a distance of 102 kms. A hotel awaits us.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Bush camp Jivia to Huanuco. 102 kms, 67% paved,  1300 metres climbing, summit 3960 metres.

I did get a good night's sleep and ate a descent breakfast, the first for about a week. I went to see the Dr and did a quick test which she was happy with and said take the day off and enjoy the rest day tomorrow. I was happy with that. So I am going to ride the truck all day to the town of Huanuco.

Our ride today would take us from the central Andes up to nearly 4000 metres on a road that can only be described as breathtaking and downright terrifying. As we made our way past the cyclists clawing their way up the dirt road I kept looking down into the valley below, being silently terrified about the drop if Robert our driver got it wrong. Our truck driver Robert is just brilliant, never takes a risk and is willing to stop to allow us to take photos. Today we had Alec, Honey, David and myself as non starters.  

We had to stop a couple of times due to landslides, goats, donkey's, pigs and sheep blocking our way. We eventually turned onto the tar road around the 40 km mark. Sitting in the fire engine and riding the bumps all day is not fun at all.

As we crested the summit at close to 4000 metres we came across a small village who were having some type of celebration. Of course we all jumped out of the truck and took some photos. I downloaded a quick video clip of the parade and photos from today. Video clip will follow tomorrow. 

 One of the colourful characters in the parade today on our way to Huanuco.

The young girls all dressed up seem to be having the time of their lives, singing and dancing in the small village nestled high in the Andean mountains.

The photo above show an old beat up vehicle. Actually it shows 2 sheep on the roof, a couple of sheep in the boot, and whatever they are doing in the boot is leaking onto the road. When I walked past I was scarred to pieces when I heard the screaming noise coming from the boot.

I sat on the hill watching the parade and David got the chance to snap a photo of myself with one of the elderly ladies of the village.

Regardless of riding the truck today, I got to see things that the cyclists would not have seen. I got to see the sides of mountains which I thought the truck was going to roll off, and then went down a 50 km hill into the madness of Huanuco. We arrived in town around 2 pm safe and sound at Hotel Royal, and pretty flash indeed.

Barry arrived about an hour after we did because we can't go fast downhill in the truck and we got caught up at 3 police checks. Now that's a story in itself which I'll leave for another time. With my room allocated it was time for a cold shower and shave and put some clean clothes on. It's only when you strip right off you realise that you have a rather strange odour after not showering for 4 days. That's life I guess.

Tomorrow is our rest day and I'm ready for a good walk of the town. For once on the trip I feel good and not tired.

I'll provide an update up my visit to the prison and other matters that happened over the past 4 days.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Spending an afternoon in a Peruvian Prison. Roaming the streets of Huaraz on my rest day.

Going on from yesterday afternoon when we arrived in Huaraz I attended the Huaraz Prison with the Editor of the Huaraz Telegraph, Mr Rex Broekman. I tell you how this all panned out.

Prior to leaving Australia I was surfing the net and came across a couple of articles where people had visited foreign prisoners in South America prisons. With a bit of homework I came across an article in the Huaraz Telegraph about Rex Broekman the editor visiting Luis Cornelius, a South African convicted of attempting to transport 17 kgs of Cocaine out of Peru. Immediately I thought I had to contact Rex and see what he could do for me. I've been in Long Bay Prison, New South Wales for work many years ago and seen the conditions, so I wanted to see first hand what is a Peruvian Goal really like. And I wanted to have the chance to interview Luis for not 10 minutes as you see on documentaries but for 1 and ½ hours. I wanted to know what made this person 'tick'.

After many emails between Rex and I and the fact that Luis was prepared to see me, the time and date was set. I informed Rex that I would be arriving with the Bike Dreams Tour on the afternoon of the 24^th August 2014 and I would be ready to head off by 2.30pm. To cut the story short, I rode the morning, made the hotel and shortly before 2.30pm I heard a knock on my room. It was a fresh faced 32 year old man, named Rex Broekman. I was surprised to see such a young man and thought that he would be much older.

So after stuffing around and finally getting my passport out of the fire engine, the taxi was taking us to Huaraz Prison close to town. We pulled up out the front of the prison and I was feeling rather anxious and not knowing what to expect. After all no one other than Barry knew what I was up to. I know my family would have been a little concerned knowing what I was going to do in Peru.

The first step was registration, a couple of stamps and then a body search. I didn't have to strip, just a pat down. The guards are not thorough at all. They never asked me to take my boots off, just a quick pat and I was on the other side of hell. Rex and I walked up a couple of steps and down below was Luis Cornelius. A thin 54 year old man, with clothes that looked old and warn. It was obvious, he was not healthy and looked a lot older than 54. We walked down the steps to be greeted by Luis and took up a seat in the main visiting area. There was a guard and about 5 other prisoners doing their own thing. I think Luis has some pull in this prison.

Now for the interview. No electronic devices are allowed in the prison, only pen and paper.

Q. Where were you born Luis?

A. I was born in Johannesburg South Africa.

Q. Why did you come to Peru?

A. Simple, I needed some money and thought drugs was an easy chance to get some.

Q. How much had you agreed to transport out of the country?

A. It was agreed upon back in South Africa that I would transport 3 kgs.

Q. How much did the case end up weighing at the airport?

A. 17 kgs roughly.

Q. You had to know the difference between 17 and 3 kgs, anyone would know that. Don't you agree?

A. Honestly Terry I never touched the bag (suitcase) at any time.

Q. Where were you living in Peru?

A. I was living in an apartment in mini Flores.

Q. So how did this all go down?

A. I left the apartment in a white taxi and ½ way I changed into another taxi and this is when I received              the bag and shown the 3kgs. I was ready to go ahead and fly to Amsterdam and then onto                           Johannesburg.

Q. What happened at the airport?

A. The person who was with me called the porter to carry the bag, I still hadn't touched the bag at this stage.      We went over the plastic wrap and wrapped the bag. The porter did all this for me as I was flying first          class. (on this point I don't think I've ever read a drug mule going first class).

Q. What airport were you flying out of?

A. Jourge Chavez airport. I was told to go to gate 7 to pay my taxes and then I could just go and check in          and I was on my way.

Q. Did you pay the airport tax?

A. Just as I was ready to walk off I was tapped on the shoulder to told to go with the officer. I thought then I      was 'F.....'.

Q. Where were you taken?

A. I was taken to a police room and told to open the bag. This is the first time I touched the bag and then          realised how heavy it was. I was screwed.

Q. Did you open the bag?

A. No, they got a drill and tried to drill into the bag and broke 2 drills. Then got a grinder and cut the bag in        half. When they did this 2 bags fell out of the bag and rolled onto the table. It's then I realised that I was        either set up or already a target. I was gone.

Q. How much were you promised if you got the drugs back to Johannesburg?

A. I was promised 30,000 rand. The street value of the drugs broken down into 1 gram bags on the street          would be several millions of rand.

Q. What did you say when you saw all the drugs?

A. F...., that don't look like 3 kgs.

Q. What did the police do next?

A. They got out the camera and video and everyone turned up, it was a big deal a Gringo getting busted.

Q. Where did you take you next?

A. They took me to the Denando Police Station for 15 days. In the 2 weeks they took me out 15 times to          try and find the suppliers. I never gave them up, if I did, I would be signing my death warrant and I knew      it wouldn't help my sentence. Not in this country.

Q. Do you have any other big suppliers in the prison?

A. Yes, Antonio Ruiz. He works in the laundry and got caught trying to transport 1.2 tonne of Cocaine out        of the country. He got 12 years.

Q. Where was the first prison you were sent?

A. I was sent to Sarita Colonia where a I spent 4 years and 8 months. It's there I contracted HIV through          needles in the pharmacy. Terry, you won't believe what shit they do in that prison. One of the prisoners          would extract his own blood and then they would put it into medicine in the pharmacy. I was sick and            given a bad dose, now I live with HIV for the rest of my life. The Peruvian Government owe me for this. I      should take legal action against them.

Q. Why were you taken medication with needles in prison?

A. I spent 4 years in traction from the age 7-11 due to brittle bones. I was given all sorts of drugs to try and        fix the problem so now I have to have a needle to help me get through. It's through the pharmacy at Sarita      Colonia that caused me this problem.

It was just then I noticed a phone on the wall beside me.

Q. This phone Luis can anyone us it?

A. Yes, prisoners can use it but the guards make the call and then you can talk.

Q. Can you order anything from outside and get it brought to you in prison?

A. Sure, no problem. We can ring prostitutes and 20 minutes later I can take a lady to my room. It happens        all the time.

It was then I met the new head of the prison, Dr Ciro Trejo Zuloagoa. It was just a shake of hands and no more.

Q. So where were you charged for this offence?

A. I was charged at the airport by a prosecutor who came and some police.

Q. How long was it being apprehended that you appeared in court?

A. 20 months, that is f..... bullshit.

Q. Where was the court?

A. It's bullshit Terry, it was in the same prison I was being held. I appeared in front of 3 magistrates and 2          prosecutors, it was a big deal to them.

Q. Was a plea bargain offered to you?

A. Yes it was, but I was told by my lawyer not to accept as these Magistrates and Prosecutors were corrupt      and you would receive 15 years at least.

Q. What did you end up getting?

A. I got 12 years with no parole. I appealed the sentence, right there and then. About 2 minutes my appeal        was heard by the same Magistrates and Prosecutors. I got the same penalty, how shit is this system.

Q. Did you lodge an appeal against the severity of the sentence to the Supreme Court?

A. I did and was told it would be dealt with in 10 days. I ended up going back to court 5 months later and          lost the appeal.

Q. What happened next?

A. The Supreme Court called me back and ruled that my sentence could have beneifits which would mean I        could be out in 4-6 years.

Q. Well that's not too bad considering how much gear you were carrying, don't you think?

A. I agree with you, but when I got transferred to this prison I couldn't take my papers with me and now I          can't find the paper that says I have benefits and now I have to stay the 12 years.

Q. What about your wife Luis, where is she?

A. My common law wife who I met 8 years ago in South Africa got caught with a false passport and drug          trafficking in Bolivia. I think she might have been trying to help me.

Q. What were the circumstances of you being transferred to Huaraz Prison?

A. I was fighting in prison on 3 or more occasions. I suffered head injuries. One day they came to me and          said you're going. It was unannounced.

Q. What did the South African embassy do for you?

A. The prison never contacted the embassy prior to my transfer which they suppose to do. These people            don't give a shit about a gringo, they do what they want, they can beat you and treat you like shit and            nothing happens to the officers.

Q. What injuries did you suffer in the assault?

A. I spent the first 6 weeks in the prison hospital recovering from my injuries. My weight dropped to 53 kgs      and I received nearly 120 litres of a fluid and was on a drip all this time. I was very sick Terry.

Q. When is your release date Luis?

A. My release is the 14^th February 2017. I've put in applications to have my term carried out in                          Johannesburg, but no one is interested.

Q. Have the South African embassy done anything for you since your transfer to Huaraz Prison?

A. No. I spent 34 months in this shit hole before I saw an embassy official, then it was 14 months later and        the last time was about 13 months ago.

Q. Since you were involved in drug trafficking, I suppose you had a drug habit before you left Johannesburg?

A. No I didn't. I know you might find it hard to believe but I was doing this money and no other purpose.          Once I found out my wife was in Bolivia I lost it, I developed an addiction for smoking crack which               lasted for 3 years and 7 months. This was whilst I was serving my sentence in Sarita Colonia.

Q. When did you stop smoking crack?

A. It was the 6^th January 2012. I had to stop or I would have died.

Q. Is it hard to get drugs in either prison?

A. The technico's (prison guards) are the suppliers of all the drugs in this place. They can get you anything.

Q. What about cameras in the gaol?

A. You are joking, no cameras anywhere, people can do whatever they like in this place and get away with         it.

Q. So what section of the prison do you live in?

A. I'm currently living in the hospital because of my poor health. There's 5 of us and 1 female but she's in an        another section.

Q. Do you have any children back home?

A. I have 2 children, 38 and 37, I've never heard from them.

Q. How do you get along with the staff of the prison?

A. Because I'm a gringo many resent me and treat me like shit. If you were American it would be worse.

Q. What are the major crimes people are doing time for in this prison?

A. 60% Drugs, 20% murder and 20% stealing.

Q. So how old are you now Luis?

A. 54 years old Terry and not going well.

Q. If you ever been outside the walls of the prison since you arrived in Huaraz?

A. Yes, 3 times. They walk me outside, call me a taxi and I go to the hospital with 2 staff members.

Q. Have you ever been beaten by the guards here?

A. Many times they hit me. Once I was beaten so bad the technico's were transferred. I had a tube out of          my stomach which I had to carry around for 9 days.

Q. How's the food?

A. the food is pathetic, I wouldn't feed it to a dog, it's shit.

Q. Give us an example of what they would feed you?

A. Rice, potato and the skin or fat from pork.

Q. Who is the longest serving prisoner in this prison Luis?

A. There is one guy who's in for having sex with his 2 children. He got life and will never walk outside these        walls again. He is the most hated man in the prison. He basically lives on his own or they will kill him.

Q. So in a typical day what time do you get up and go to bed?

A. Roll call is at 8am and 5pm. Usually I go to roll call at 8am and then go back to sleep till 11am, I have            nothing to do.

Q. So what's going to happen to Luis when he's released in 2017?

A. I'm going to be deported and then I'm going to write a book about my experience. I've already started          writing notes so I can do when I get home.

After our conversation Luis took Rex and myself for a walk of the prison. We visited the minimum and medium security part of the prison and looked through the bars of maximum security prisoners playing ball in the courtyard. When you enter the corridor that leads to these sections, it's then that you realise how vulnerable you are. Prisoners come up to you and offer you food, little carvings, drinks, but Rex and I ignore then and Luis tells them to F.... off. He's not scared to tell the other prisoners where to go. Luis bought us both a drink from a prisoner who has his own shop in the prison and we then made a hasty retreat to check out the prison hospital where Luis lives.

After checking out the prison and going back to the main courtyard, I was glad to be out of that shit hole. I got to see the dorm section where 12 prisoners could live in bunks in a room smaller than my computer room at home.

It was now getting close to 5pm and it was time to say farewell and leave Luis behind. I did wish Luis good health and hopefully he does get to write a book about his experiences. Rex and I left the prison and headed back to town. I am extremely grateful to Rex for organising the visit and to Luis for allowing me into his life for such a short period of time. Yes Luis is a convicted criminal and never hides from this fact. Of course he wishes he never did it, or perhaps wishes he never got caught.

To those who think of being involved in trafficking drugs, whether it be in South America, Thailand, Bali or any other country around the world, personally you deserve the full weight of that countries laws to come down on you. You deserve to be treated according to their laws and not those of the country you use to live in. To think anything different is not logical.

So there you have it, an afternoon in the Huaraz Prison. An experience I will never forget. Yes, there were many other questions I would have liked to ask Luis, but time was against me.

Now for today.

I had a good sleep, got my clothes washed, went shopping for a new bag, ate some food, rested, eat some more food, clean the bike and go to sleep. Tomorrow we start another 4 days of punishment in the higher mountains of the Andes.

 I had to buy a bag to replace the one with the broken zipper. Old mama was hard to bargain with, but I did get her down a couple of coings.

Whilst in the markets we came across the meat section.  Anyone for non refrigerated guinea pig.

 The ladies above are selling their produce sitting on the pavement of Huaraz. They do not like to have their photo's taken.

And more non refrigerated poultry for dinner. Not for me.

We will be bush camping for 3 nights, so no internet. I will post the next update in 3 days. More dirt, more rock and the temperature is increasing.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Caraz to Huaraz. 70 kms, 100% paved, 1223 metres of climbing, summit 3125 metres.

After a good night's sleep we hit the road shortly after 8 am. We rolled out of town and the usual group formed at the front of the peleton. I stayed with James, Dietrich and Rein for about 10 kms then decided to drop off and take it at a much more leisurely pace.

After another 5 kms Barry and Tim caught up and I rode the rest of the ride with them up until the lunch stop at 38 kms. We arrived at lunch at 10 am and really I was not hungry after having breakfast only 3 hours ago. I munched down a salad roll and some more fluids then hit the road for the final 32 km push to the town of Huaraz.

During our ride today we got to run along the famous Cordillera Blanca mountain range where we could see the highest peaks at over 5000 metres with their snow capped peaks. This part of the Peru attracts people wanting to take part in expeditions to the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash. I know I've said it before and no doubt I'll say it again, but riding through villages and having these snow capped mountains following you in the distance is just breath taking. The whole day was just magic.

 This is a photo from yesterday riding on some terrible roads.

 During the ride today we stopped and spoke to some Colombians who were doing a tour through South America. There's no way I'll ever carry my gear on a bike again. Too old for that stuff.

That's Patrick one of the nice guys on tour. You can see the start of the snow capped mountains in the distance. 

Another important town we rode through was the city of Yungay. Yungay is located in the Callejon de Huaylas on Rio Santa at an elevation of 2500 metres. Peru's highest mountain is no more than 15 kms away. On the 31^st May 1970 landslide caused by the Ancash earthquake buried the whole town killing 25, 000 people. Only 92 survived, most of whom were in the cemetery and stadium at the time of the earthquake as these zones were the highest in the town. The earthquake struck on a Sunday afternoon and lasted only 45 seconds. The earthquake destabilised the northern wall of Mount Huascaran, causing a rock, ice and snow avalanche 910 metres wide and 1.6 kms long. It advanced 18 kms to the village of Yungay at an average speed of 280 to 335 kph. No one stood a chance.

The Peruvian Government has forbidden excavation in the area where the old town of Yungay is buried, declaring it a national cemetery.

In total the reported toll from the earthquake and avalanche totalled 74,194 people lost their lives. Now back to the afternoon ride.

No sooner had we got back on the bike and I was feeling tired. I'm not good at restarting the engine after sitting down for so long, but I was struggling. It could have been a food problem and not eating enough or I was just tired. I did my turn with Barry as much as I could but I was really relieved to see the outskirts of Huaraz appear in the distance. We stopped in town and got a drink and watched the locals walking by. We got the usual looks by everyone, but we didn't care, we were too tired to be worried what anyone thought of 2 gringos sitting on the pavement drinking. Our hotel was about 100 metres down the road so we headed off to find the fire engine parked outside a nice hotel. Barry and I had twin room like usual, so we got the key, carried our bikes up to our room and flopped on the bed. I was stuffed. The morning ride I was flying, the afternoon I hit the wall. As they say, 'shit happens',

After a nice shower I was ready for an afternoon that only a few people ever get the chance to experience. This part of the day will be devoted to a full story tomorrow.

The photo above is of my wrist and some stamps. That is the clue as to what I got up to all afternoon.

We're on a rest day tomorrow, that means I sleep in.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

3 days in the dirt and time for a story.

Thursday 21^st August 2014. Huanchaco to Bush camp. 115 kms, 910 metres of climbing. 17 % dirt.

Today's the day I get back on the bike after 2 rest days in Huanchaco and a day off for being sick. I was really concerned that my stomach problem could return at any time and perhaps this is the reason why I had a terrible night's sleep. I think I was awake from about 2 am. At least I was in a hotel room and not in the tent.

On the rest day I finally sorted out all my gear and have 1 large day bag that carries all my worldly possessions and a bag for my tent and gear. Today we are going camping in the middle of nowhere.

 This is what faced up as soon as we left the Pan American Hwy and hit the dirt. This should be fun.

 I took this photo today whilst resting from the sun. I don't know about the bloke with the facial hair, but the children are gorgeous.

 This is one of the little villages we stopped at during the past 3 days of riding in the dirt.

The photo above is typical of the countryside we're riding in each day. We make our way along a single road that hangs precariously to the cliffs.

For breakfast I had a bowl of cereal and no bread and jam. I usually get by with a bowl of cereal back home before riding so it's reasonable to assume I can do it here. We packed the trucks with all the gear and rolled out of the beautiful seaside town and headed towards the 3^rd largest city in Peru, Trujillo. I did enjoy my time in this part of the world and got to talk to more of the cyclists on the Bike Dreams Tour.

The first part of the ride to lunch was over gentle undulating hills with a nice shoulder to ride on. Once again we had the police escorts all the way to lunch and they would not let the trucks overtake us and put us in danger. They all had to wait their turn to pass us. These officers were just amazing, they would stop on the side of the road and get out their cameras and take photos of us as if we were important to them. They cared for us on the road and showed us the utmost respect.

Lunch was at the 62 km mark on a basketball court. In these parts of the worlds it's a slab of concrete with no fencing around it. We put out the chairs, tables, food and make ourselves right at home. Lunch was 2 salad bread rolls and this time my stomach was turning through eating bread.

Back on the road after a good 30 minute break and the group was now heading to the 100 km mark which would be the turning off point for the first real section of dirt for the tour. The police blocked the road so we could cross over and hit the wilderness.

 A photo of the road we're riding on each day.

 The photo above shows the camping ground we stayed at last night. Absolute paradise.

Barry and I had to get our photo taken with her police before heading off for some more bone jarring riding. And I paid good money to be punished like this.

The dirt road was rocky, uneven, hard to pick a line and jolted every bone in my body. And this is supposed to having a good time. As we got deeper into the dirt section the mountains started to appear around us. The colours with the sun on the face of the mountains were just startling. Deep brown, deep red, grey, blacks, I could see colours that would keep a Geologist (Ashley Lester, my good friend from Wollongong) busy for hours. There is one thing I have to do for Ashley which I do on every trip is that is find a rock from the country I'm visiting. In this case he wants an 'Andesite Rock'. That will come later.

We continued on for about 15 kms till we could see one of the fire engines in the distance. A couple of riders were already at camp but I'm over rushing on this tour, it's a holiday and I want to do it at my pace. As soon as I got in I put up the tent had a wash down and put some warm clothes on. The wind was blowing through the valley and I'm sure it's going to be a cold night out in this place tonight. This will certainly tell me if I bought the right tent or not.

Buck and I went for a walk up one of the small hills overlooking the campsite and took some photos looking down into the valley kms away. It's times like these I wish I brought my good camera. I headed over to the eating area and had a bowl of soup and chatted with Barry and Kristin. I went back to the tent to lay down and do some reading. The reading wasn't a success because I woke myself up from my snoring. I must have dozed off. I heard the fire engine tooting it's horns telling us dinner is ready. Dinner was a nice dish of seafood, vegetables, pasta and a slab of cake for desert. It was perfect.

I feel much better today and am looking forward to a day of riding through a gorge which is suppose to be out of this world. Unfortunately due to living in the wilderness the WiFi is crap. We have another night of bush camping tomorrow and then it's back to luxury.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Friday 22^nd August 2014. Bush camp to Bush camp. 1045 metres climbing, 10% paved. 85 kms.

Another night in the tent and a very good sleep. I've worked out one of the Norwegian guys snores like a freight train, so tonight I've made sure he's a long way away from Tent Hilton. And the same old stuff with people getting out of bed 1 hour before breakfast. I don't care any more, I'm lying in bed till 6.30 am and not budging. It takes me about 20 minutes to pack up home and get dressed.

First thing this morning was to have our photos taken with our police security. They came into camp last night around 2 am and decided to shine their lights all around the campsite to make sure no one was around. Like as if someone is going to come out to this lunar landscape and rob us, I don't think so.

We all rolled out of camp around 8.15 am to hit the dirt for the next 85 kms. Like usual there are those who roar up the road wanting that illusive win, HA, I've already got mine over with and can now relax. Barry and I rode together and this was his first real go at riding on dirt for many years. As I was going down one hill the vibration had caused the bottle holders at the back of my seat to come lose and crash to the road. I only lost 1 screw so when I get into camp I'll have to go and see Lupcho the bike mechanic to help me out.

Lunch was at the 52 km mark in a beautiful location down on the side of the river. This whole section today follows the river for 85 kms. Through tunnels, over many old bridges and along bump, corrugated, sandy, and rocky roads. As we crested one hill our police were firing their guns into an open field doing some practice. We just casually rode past and gave a wave.

I got to take some amazing photos of the mountains that surrounded us the entire day, the tunnels, and just spectacular scenery. The day did heat up after lunch to over 35 degrees C. I didn't feel that bad as I'd been drinking heaps throughout the day not wanting to suffer what I did last week.

We did stop for a nice cold drink before lunch and before the end of the day.

Once in camp we set up tent and then got our clothes and headed down to the river to wash our dirty, dusty bodies and try and clean our cycling gear. Seriously we were disgustingly dirty. The clothes were washed, but didn't look any cleaner than before. Who cares. Our campsite is in a dust bowl.

The rest of the afternoon was spent down near the river relaxing and taking in the view. Just behind where we're camping is a huge mountain that has a road that clings to the side of it. We were told it's a 20 km climb and thankfully we're not going that way tomorrow.

Once again dinner was excellent and now it's time to retire to the tent, do some reading and going to sleep around 8 pm. Tomorrow we have an even harder day with more metres to climb, but no camping, hotel for tomorrow night.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Saturday 23^rd August 2014. Bush camp to Caraz. 66 kms. Paved 35%, 1600 metres of climbing. Summit 2147 metres.

Another night in a dust bowl with the wind blowing dirt everywhere. There's not a place on my body or tent that hasn't seen dust over the past 3 days. I woke around 6 am feeling pretty good and starting packing up at 6.30 am. See it only takes me about 15 minutes to get ready so why should I get up any earlier.

I had a bowl of cereal for breakfast and it's hard to digest. A banana and a cup of coffee and we were ready to hit the gravel road for the next 25 kms. Barry and I rode together all day and he's improving each day in coping with the rough terrain we're riding in. You are jolted and belted around all day on the bike with very little respite other than the side of the mountains from the sun. We had a lot of climbing to do today and like every other day on tour, it's tough.\

The first part of the day was pleasant with a gradual climb around spectacular cliffs, amazing gorges, colours in the cliffs changing as the sun got higher and higher in the sky. The only part of the day which we had to pay particular attention too, was the tunnels we had to pass through. In total we had about 30 tunnels from start to finish. We only had one issue in the tunnels when this idiot decided to roar up from behind in the pitch black and go past us. Myself, Barry and Jeanette had to take evasive action and move off the road and lean up against the tunnel wall. This was downright stupidity. If he had stopped at the end of the tunnel he would have been dealt some good old Aussie treatment for doing a dickhead.

After 2 hours of riding we stopped at a bus shelter in a very small village. Barry called over 3 of the kids, who came over and took a seat with us. I got a great photo of the kids with Barry. Barry gave each child one of his food bars, but had to help them unwrap it. These children had the most beautiful smile, and considering the house they live in, it explains a lot about what we really need in life to be truly happy.

We pressed onto the 28 km for dinner, arriving at 10.30 am. I was so glad to get off the dirt and off my ass as well. Lunch was the usual deal, sitting in the shade, watching Peruvian life waddle bye. As we were eating lunch I could see this huge mountain behind us, and yep, we had to climb it straight away. This climb went for about 25 kms with no rest. In and out of darkened tunnels, burning sun, wind, deep drop off on the side of the road which would result in instant death if you got it wrong. But we were having the time of our lives.

Not a good photo, but it's typical of our daily drink stops meeting beautiful people. How lucky are we.

As the day went on the 3 of us were getting tired. We stopped at this house and Barry spoke to this old women who had a fridge full of cold drinks. We were in heaven now. We got some drinks, sat outside under the shelter and relaxed. The temperature was now close to 40 degrees C and we just wanted to get the ride over and done with. I should say that I was extremely impressed with Jeanette's effort today. She stayed with us from lunch to the end of the day and I was driving up the hill and not taking it easy at all.

With about 5 kms to go the road finally flattened out and the end was now in sight. We entered the town of Caraz, and then had to navigate a political rally in the centre of town. We just pushed our bikes along the footpath and the people just let us through. One guy offered Barry a beer as we were going by.

The hotel we're staying at is called Hostel Perla de Los Andes. It's not a bad place, no dirt, no dust, no wind, has a hot shower, and a bed. Barry now taking a nap and soon we're heading off to the internet shop to try and make contact to the outside world.

Tomorrow we head to the city of Huaraz, and another rest day. I can't wait.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

2 rest days in Huanchaco. On the mend and ready to start tomorrow.

Firstly, I'm not a good patient and in fact I hate being ill. For the past 2 days I went into the main city of Trujillo to do some looking around with Buck and James, got a hair cut, went to a couple of churches, caught the local bus, a couple of taxis, and rested up.

Last night we went to Lupcho's house for a party and a majority of the cyclists attended the event. His family had gone to great lengths in ensuring he night was a success. They had strobe lighting, enough lights to light up the Sydney Football Stadium and loud Peruvian music. It was a great night and a special event on tour. Buck and I left the party close to 10 pm, as I was still tired and working hard on getting over this damn stomach bug. I would say I'm about 90% and I'm really looking forward to getting back on the bike tomorrow.

 We took the local Peruvian bus into Trujillo today, would have been a lot quicker to catch the taxi.

 The photo above is of yet another Cathedral. This Cathedral is the Basilica Nemar which is quite spectacular inside.

 That's James in the barber's chair. Myself and Buck also got a hair cut but you won't be seeing any photos of my head until it's a bit longer. It cost 3 Sol each which is about $1.15 Australian, and to my 2 cycling buddies, NO, I didn't try and get it cheaper. Actually I was given a chocolate for being so good whilst I got my haircut, and out of the goodness in my heart I gave it to the young girl who cut my hair.

 The roof inside the Basilica was painted beautifully. The iPhone doesn't do the painted justice.

 More of the amazing ceiling inside Basilica Nemar, Trujillo.

It's a real shame I didn't go and eat at Restaurant Jesus the previous day, I might'n have ended up sick. Found the restaurant at the end of today's walk. 

Today we only went for a walk up town and bought another T-Shirt to add to my collection, or might even given one away when I get home. I had to change the tires on my bike from road tires to dirt tyres as from now on we're going to be spending a lot of time in the mountains and on dirt. This is the part I really enjoy.

This afternoon I'm spending it laying on the bed, listening to some music and doing nothing. Tomorrow is the start of a 4 day leg to the city of Huaraz where I have some interesting stuff arranged. Since we'll be bush camping for the next 2 nights, no blogs until the next hotel in 3 days. 

As you workers are slowly dragging your lazy butts out of bed and getting ready for work, I'm going to sleep to get ready to attack the dirt and no shower for the next 3 days. Bring it on.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Pacasmayo to Huanchaco on the truck. 112 kms.

When I got up this morning I got dressed in my lycra and went down for breakfast. As the seconds ticked away I knew that I was not feeling well and riding another 112 kms feeling shit but just down right stupid. I told Barry that I had to go back to the room and change into my normal clothes and that I was going to take the truck.

There are some riders, just like those in the Cairo to Capetown ride that would rather ride with terrible sickness than to ride the truck, just for the sake of riding every inch of the trip regardless of the damage it may cause to them.  Me, I don't care, I'm on a holiday.

I loaded the bike onto the truck and headed off to Huanchaco. We arrived in town around 11 am and quickly on loaded all the bags  from the truck, got my room and went to bed. I was stuffed.

The riders arrived around 1 pm and I joined in for a bowl of soup. I wasn't eating and just thinking about eating bread and jam made me ill. I went back and laid down all afternoon. Just before dinner as the sun was setting Buck, James and I walked along the beach front to check out the scenery. Didn't see anyone swimming, probably because the water was freezing, but we did see people tending their fishing nets and getting ready to go out and catch a boat load.

I did take some Norfloxacin Sandoz which was given to me by Michelle which seem to have done the job on my stomach. Dinner last night was a disgusting, a piece of rubber fish which was inedible and a hand full of potato chips. I left early and went back to the hotel to lay down, I was stuffed.

When I did get back to the hotel I was met by David and Susan, 2 extremely nice people from England who are also taking part in the tour. Dave had just been bitten by a dog and the skin had been broken. I heard later on that he went to about 3 hospitals and none of them had the vaccination shot he needed. Looks like he'll have to do some more searching tomorrow.

 The photo above was taken walking along the beach at Huanchaco.

 These Pelicans are everywhere on the beach and they don't move for you. You have to walk around them.

 We came across some kids diving for these small crabs near the pier.

The photo above is of Buck's breakfast today.

I know I'm late with this post but when you're unwell you just couldn't be bothered to do anything other than to lay down and rest. I went through the same thing when I was in Kosovo last year with my good friend Peter Felvus. Damn we were sick in that place.

Tomorrow will be another easy day and perhaps I'll go into Trujillo to look around the shops. Do some shopping and might even get an airport.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.

Lambayeque to Pacasmayo. 119 kms. 363 metres of climbing. Still not 100%.

Once again I'm being troubled by an upset stomach. Even during the night I could feel something wasn't right. I'm putting it down to eating white bread. See I don't eat white bread at home and it's much harder to digest than brown bread. My goal is to back off completely and see what else I can eat to replace bread during the day. I have to ride 119 kms on mainly flat roads with an upset stomach, so another tough day to drag my ass through.

You've already heard me complain about my sleep last night, well breakfast was a bit of a non event.Now this has nothing to do with Bike Dreams but the hotel only provided a couple of bread rolls with jam, and that's it. That's just made my day even harder.

The group rolled out of the hotel and I was last one out. This meant I had to chase the group for 5 kms before I got on the back. I managed to do a 10 minute turn on the front, but it just wasn't working for me. I sat on the back of the bunch again till lunch and I'll see what happens with a rest.

 The photo above are a kind of vulcher that scavengers all around this desolate countryside. The sands go from the roadside off into the distance for miles and miles. This is the terrain we've been riding in for days.

Lunch stop was fine in a sandy patch off the side of the road.

Back on the road for the final push to Pacasmayo, some 55 kms. I went to the front with Max straight away for a 10 minute run and then went back to the back of the pack for the rest of the afternoon. I was just so tired from poor sleeping and the upset stomach.

It was a very baron road with crazy truck and bus drivers all day avoiding head on collisions. I'm amazed how close they came to each other time after time.

We rolled into Pacasmayo around 1 pm and were greeted to a really nice hotel right on the beach. 

That's me on the left, Barry in the middle and Tim Dowling on the right standing on the balcony overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Beautiful view and perfect weather.

 The beach front avenue outside our hotel.

The photo above was taken on the beach front looking out to the pier that runs out about 200 metres from the shore.

I went for a walk with Jurg, Barry and Buck around the town and bought some yogurt to calm my stomach down for the evening. I can now hear the water lapping on the shore and the band has just started playing. Dinner is just around the corner, shortly followed by bed. It's just the way it is on tour.

I hope everyone is enjoying the ride as much as I am.

Until tomorrow, safe riding.