Two great days in Sudan

Rest Day Dongola.

We’re now staying in a ground known as the Dongola Zoo.  It has nothing that resembles a zoo, it’s got grass, water, toilet and a shower.  Now this is paradise.  The shower is with a hose. On the rest day we went into town and did the usual walk around the markets, souks as there’re more commonly known with good friend Lindsay, Luke and Horst.  We stopped at a local food shop for lunch which was an omelette with tomato, quite nice actually.

The day never changed with walking in and out of shops and trying to stuff as much into our stomachs as humanly possible.  No, we’re not pigs, but we do need a substantial amount of food and fluids to ensure we make it to Khartoum in one piece, and that is more short term goal.  I don’t look any further than a couple of days.

For evening dinner we found the chicken man, I’ll post the photos of him when I get to Khartoum as the connection right now in the Nubian Desert is crap.  The food was sensational and we each had ½ a chook and rice, washed down with coke, now that’s living.  Dongola has nothing to offer the tourist as it’s a dust bowl.  It did offer me a haircut and the chance to sit down and have nice cup of mint tea with the locals, and that was pretty special.  The Sudanese people are much friendlier and more honest than the Egyptian people we dealt with.

For the rest of the evening we just sat around the Zoo, as we were the only animals in the place, or at least foreign to the locals, and did nothing.  Looking with anticipation to the next 520km stretch to Khartoum.

Dongola to Dead Camel Camp.  Nubian Desert, Sudan. 142kms

Back to the routine of getting up at 6am, or that’s what I thought.  There’s this one guy, Francis from England who gets up at about 5am and wakes everyone up around him.  That’s not good.  I can’t see why anyone needs to get out of bed and make a noise 1hr and 45mins before breakfast is served.  Remember I hate getting out of bed at the best of times.  And at home I don’t need to put my smelly tent down.

So finally got on the bike and headed off with Luke, Lindsay, Peter, Liam, and some others for the ride to lunch.  We stayed at a nice pace and made the 75km lunch break by 9.45am.  I stuffed my face like usual and waited for Rodney and his mates, more affectionately known as ‘Team Grandpa’, because their old and have grand children.  They tried to rope me into their team and told them to go and ………. It.

After lunch it was a nice ride to the tea break at the local Sudanese store with about 10 cyclists. Now that’s what this holiday is all about to me.  Riding along like racing is dumb as crap to me, I came to feel Africa for the last time, and I was sure as hell going to enjoy every kilometre.

We made it into camp when the heat was really going through the roof.  As soon as we put up the tents we had our cups of soup, more water, and then headed off to the Nile River for a nice swim to cool off.  The water was running really fast, so we couldn’t venture out too far.

Back to camp and a really nice meal of beans, meat, rice and some other vegies which I don’t know the name of.  Perhaps I should ask my wife what vegies they are, she does all the shopping at home, I’m too busy working to be worried about doing the shopping.  After eating 2 big plate fills of food it’s now time to hit the sack as we’ve got 143km to do tomorrow.  Good night from the heat of the Nubian Desert.  Oh, before I go to sleep I should say that a relationship is starting to form with 2 people on the tour.  I love gossip.

Beautiful Sudan

Australia Day, 26^th January 2011. Wadi Halfa to Desert Camp.  150, kms

After meeting all the new support people that will accompany us to Nairobi, we were fed a fantastic dish of spaghetti and vegetable dish.  Like usual I had two plates fills each time.  By the time I got all my gear into the new lockers I was relieved that it all fit.  Actually I was surprised to say the least.

Bedtime was around 8pm and I was bushed after a long day of the ship and getting through the hassle of immigration and customs which were basically a show of strength by the local military.  The sleep was pretty good and I got up around 6.30am for my first day of cycling in Sudan, Africa.  Today was a 150km ride to the desert camp which is a lot of kms if you’re not feeling well. 

We got on the bikes by 7.30am and by 10.30 we had covered the 75ks to lunch which is still hard to accept at that time of the morning.  The next stop was 12kms later in a Sudanese house which was supposed to be a coke stop but instead I had mint tea which was superb.   The wind was really favourable today and helped so much in making some qui ck time throughout the day.

The local Sudanese guys just sat there with their turbans on and watched as a bunch of stupid white, Lycra clad cyclists decided to stop and pay them a visit.  I really do enjoy stopping at these stops and having a tea and meeting the real people of this part of the world.  The racers got get to see zip as they speed along with their eyes glued to the wheel in front of them.  I don’t see that as fun at all.

We arrived at camp at 1.30pm after the 150km ride which was nice and early to put up tent and go for a walk down to the Nile River and cool down some.  The weather is starting to get really hot now and even in the tent is really cooking.

With an afternoon cup of soup and a cup of tea the day is slowly winding down which has been another fantastic day on my road to Cape Town.    Dinner time now and time eat like a front row footballer for the dragons.

An early night tonight as I’ve got another 150kms to ride tomorrow.  Pleasant dreams.

27^th January 2011. Nile Camp to Nile Camp.  150kms

I had a good night’s sleep last night and got up at 6am.  Today I was not going to rush like I usually do as I love my sleep and dragging my arse out of bed is something I don’t like doing at the best of times.  If you don’t do it here you get left behind and end up riding on your own all day and that makes for a long long day.

We got on the road as the sun was trying to rise around 7.30am.  The view as the sun started to light up the desert sand s was really nice and helped sooth the pain of getting out of bed at 6am, which is not normal.  I joined my usual group of riders but they’re going too hard for me and by the time lunch came around at the 80km mark I decided to have a long lunch and wait for a  couple of slower riders to do the final 70km to camp. 

The wind was starting to change and at times we had a really strong headwind to content with and this was making it really hard when my legs were already tired from the day before.  The landscape didn’t change that much from a landscape full of sand and small villages made of mud littering the landscape.  We had the usual group of kids and adults along the roadside yelling and waving at us all day.

We stopped for a coke shortly after lunch as the sun was really getting hot now.  I rode the final part with Dr Gary, Lindsay, John, Peter and Rodney to camp.  Arrived at camp around 1.30pm, set up camp in the desert sands, a couple of cups of soup and time to go for a swim in the mighty Nile River.  The water was freezing, but I couldn’t come this far to say I didn’t go in because it was too cold, that would be un Australian.  The water was super, and so refreshing, but after an hour of being out of the water, I was dusty, dirty, and bloody hot again. 

Tonight will be another easy night and get to bed early as I’ve got 110km to ride to Dongola and a rest day.  This means everyone will ride like maniacs to get to camp early, clean all their dirty clothes, and do the internet.  So I’ll talk you soon from Dongola, Sudan.

Our position for those really clever people is:

Latitude 19 degrees 59’32.24”N

Longitude 30 degrees 34’56.05”E

Altitude 212Meters.

Now find out where the hell I am camping.

28^th January 2011. Nile River Camp to Dongola. Sudan. 110kms

After standing around the fire last night I hit the sack and got a great sleep.  Once again I was woken by Rodney the Australian living in Israel.  Extremely nice man.  After packing up my tent and sleeping bag (6am, pitch black and cold)  which wears thin at times, I shovel led down as much food as I possibly could for the fast day ahead.

Hit the road before the sun was rising and it was truly spectacular riding along on my own for the first hour just checking out the lunar landscape.  The air was brisk but I was covered up enough not to be put off at all.  After the hour I was caught by the chasing bunch.  I was pretty tired after the 2 previous 150k days.  Both the young girls questioned me why I wasn’t  pulling any turns, so I told them both, I’m on holidays and I don’t have to do a darn thing, I’m not racing you are so do some work.  Now there a lot of comments for and against sitting on, but when you’re tired and not in the race, but only as an adventurer, then I think I don’t have to do anything, it’s only courteous to help if able.    I’ll certainly update you again with further information when I upset them again.

The afternoon I ride the final 45kms to Dongola with a Sudanese rider who was doing a couple of day with the tour.  We did 3 minute turns each and sat on about 32-34kms.  I did feel tired but also good knowing the fact that I think I’m getting stronger pushing this heavy piece of metal through Africa.

After arriving in Dongola (Dongola Zoo) it was put up tent, have a shower, attempt a shave, and clean my putrid clothes.  Luke, Lindsay and I walked down the road for lunch and had an amazing ½ chicken and rice for $3.00 Aus.  I could’ve ate 2 of them I was so hungry.  For the rest of the afternoon it was basically chilling out as tomorrow is a rest day after riding 400kms in 3 days.  The weather is starting to get really hot also. I also cleaned my chain, sprockets and rear wheel.  Maintenance is so important to keep the bike on the road.

Later on in the evening I went back down the street to see if the local barber was open.  Magic, open.  I went in had a haircut and shave for the same price as ½ a chook and rice.  Not bad. 

I also had to hunt around to buy a Sudanese Sim Card as Telstra are absolute rubbish in this part of the world so I could call home.  This happened last time with Josh the problem with telephone access and the bloke from Telstra ensured me that the package would give me coverage all throughout Africa.  NOT.  I managed to get a sim card without proving I was an alien, and without showing my passport, and he set the whole system up for me.  I sent Graciella and SMS and blow me down it worked.  Graciella and Matt called me within 10 minutes (2.30am Corrimal time) and we got a chance to talk about my journey so far.  I spoke to Graciella and Matt via MSN video in Cairo but nothing in the past 2 weeks.  Now I’ll be able to be contacted over the next 10 days while I’m in Sudan. 

Now 10pm in Dongola, the campsite is quiet and I’m tired.  Good night Corrimal.

Entering Sudan

We waited on the ship for about 5 hours before departure.  It was extremely hot but beautiful none the less.  Finally after 1/2 a million ton of crap was loaded onto the ship and 5 million people jammed into every little corner of the ship we were on our way at 5pm. 

 

By the time darkness had fallen it was just like 7 years ago when we looked up into the sky and could see 100 million stars, it was just amazing.  The ship was a good cruise with perfect weather and calm seas.  Lake Nasser is enormous and it’s the same Lake that Ewan McGregor, Charlie Boreman Michael Palin took on their journey’s throughout Africa.  But they never did it on a bike, like I am. Because I’m stupid.

 

I won the toss so I got a bed in the cabin and got a good 9hours sleep.  We got to see the monuments at Aba Simbel on the way down the lake at around 7am, that was pretty neat also.  By the time 11am had arrived we were docking at Wadi Halfa Sudan.  It took 4 hours to onload the ship get the local off the ship and all our bikes and bags.  What a shit fight.  I thought our beauracry was bad in Australia, you’ve seen nothing until you come to Sudan.

 

After all the forms and checks we rode out of the harbour and down the road for a 3km ride to camp.  This is where we got our first sight of the new trucks that will be taking us the rest of the way to Cape town.  They never came up to Cairo because of the unrest down in the south of Sudan. I would have been upset if I couldn’t get to go through Sudan.  I came to ride from Cairo to Cape Town not by missing out on Sudan.  But I am aware of the dangers and not to take risks at this stage.

 

Got a lot of kms to cover over the next 3 days before we reach Dongola.  Until then safe riding.

17km police escort convoy, camp to Aswan Harbour.

 The above photographs are of the ship we are taking to Sudan and members of the Cairo to Capetown 2011 tour.  Just relaxing and waiting for the ship to depart.

Today we got a chance to sleep in till 7am.  Rider meeting was 8am and at 9.15 we were on our way for a leisurely ride to the Harbour.  The weather in Awan is getting really hot so when the ship decides to leave we might get a bit of coolness from the breeze on Lake Nasser.  The TDA was very fortunate as we got the opportunity to ride across the high dam and ride all the way to the boat.  This allowed for the luggage truck to drive all our belongings to the ship, otherwise it would have been a 1km task of carrying our gear to the ship.  I didn't feel like carry all my stuff that far, that would have cracked me.  We waited at the harbour under the burning sun to board the ship.  Firstly the bike, through the hoards of people getting on the ship and trying to load 50 billion ton of crap onto a ship which was clearly not meant for it.  I don't really care, just as long as we make it to Sudan tomorrow I'll be happy.  I got cabin with 2 other guys, the problem there's only 2 beds.  I hope age prevails, otherwise I'm sleeping on the deck with a billion other people.  Well now I'm just sitting down doing nothing just waiting for the ship to leave.  We were told it leaves at 4pm, I reckon 7pm might be closer. 

Posting Comments on Blogs.

Recently i have had some questions asked about posting comments on my blogs. To post a comment on my blog you will need to have a account/sign-up with  Google, aim or any of the sites that appear in the drop down menu list, Alternatively you can post a comment on my facebook page that i will read during my journey.

Thanks to everyone that has sent messages along the way.

Idfu to Aswan, getting ready to enter Sudan.

The first part of the ride was so hectic, with cyclists surging, slowing, and not keeping a constant pace was a real pain in the arse.  I like to ride with riders who can ride at a consistant pace, which to me is more enjoyable.  Saying that, the people in the group are a nice bunch of people to hang with. 

At one stage we got caught by the local train going by and had to wait, some cyclists decided to cross the tracks even though our police motor cyclist escort was right there with us.  I waited out of respect for the police, I suppose old habits are hard to die.

I ended with a new group and rode to lunch at a nice pace.

The rest of the day was nice ride in the crazy traffic of egypt and into Aswan. The road travelled along the banks of the mighty Nile River for many miles and with the feluccas all over the place and huge tourist ships lining the shores, it was still pretty impressive.

Staying at the local campsite with police everywhere protecting us.  Each carry AK47 for our protection which makes you feel pretty safe at night.  Time to have a cold wash, put the same old smelly clothes on and go for a walk.  Tomorrow we board the ship to Sudan.  I'm so glad I'm getting the chance to enter the country, otherwise my dream of riding from Cairo to Capetown would have come to a crashing halt. Not good.  So I'll see you on the other side of Lake Nasser, at Sudan next week. 

My sponsor of Cairo to Khartoum.

riding in the peleton.

Matt will be doing my updates for me for the next couple of days.

Luxor to Idfu. On the Nile River.

After a terrific time in luxor we headed out for another 118km ride to another desert camp.  We rode in the usual group and the weather was just fantastic, not hot, and with a good tail wind. We were in for lunch by 8.30 and completed the ride by 10.30am. Not bad, 118kms over with by that time of the day. 

After setting up tent in tent in the loca football ground, the usual crew went for a walk around town.  This was perhaps the first time we were set upon by the local kids who were extremely persistant and a pain in the arse.

With so much of the day free, both lindsay, Rodney and myself went to visit the Hores Temple of Edfu.  The temple was fabulous and it's amazing how those engravers got to do such an incredible job, and at height.  if you would like to read about the temple, once again go to google com, they will help you out. 

the man in charge of the bicycle shop in luxor

family photo, don't know the family yet.

Hores temple of Edfu

Lindsay, Rodney and Terry

After dinner we went for another walk and some more of that mint tea which tastes so nice.  Back to the footbal field to crash.

Seeing the sites of Luxor: Rest Day.

Today was going to be a special day in Luxor.  I had watched plenty of documentaries about Luxor, the valley of the Kings, valley of the Queens, Temple of Karnak and I was heading straight for it.  With a terrific meal for breakfast we were on our way to our first destination. Valley of the Queens, followed by the Valley of the Kings, the temple of hatshepsut, and to end the day we stopped at the temple of Karnak.

                    this will be our daily schedule for the next week.

Mia and Mohammad and Youseff from the Boomerang Hotel Luxor.  Such lovely people. 

The sights of each monument was absolutely mind blowing.  To stand where the creation of mathematics, thousands of years ago was born.  Where thousands of people help build tombs for Pharaohs, their children, their wives is so difficult to comprehend.  Basically we had a fantastic day the 9 of us. We were out for 8 hours touring Luxor and all it's attractions and enjoying the time off the bike.  Tomorrow it would all start again as we make our way to Aswan to board the ship for SUDAN.

On the road to Luxor.

Sailing the Nile River was just a magic experience.

Sunset on the Nile River.

Freezing my arse off, and I do need a shave.

Happy Birthday New Zealander Lindsay

The tour D Afrique staff made a fantastic birthday cake for Lindsay my cycling buddy.

photographs not loading

The internet connection is too slow to upload photos.  Will try tomorrow to post a couple. 

Valley of the Kings, Queens, Temple of Karnak tomorrow.

First rest day of the tour after 800kms of riding in 6 days.

Day 6 Desert Camp to Luxor, Egypt.

Day 6.  Desert Camp to Luxor. 95kms

Today was up nice and early but for some reason I found it difficult to get my shit together and get it onto the truck before I had breakfast.  I think I was too tired from all the kms lately.  Got on the bike at 7am for the 45kms to the lunch break.  We did the first 45ks in about 1hr 15mins, which is pretty fast but we had a huge bunch of cyclists.  The thing I should mention was that when we started today it was freezing cold and fog all around.  The military are amazing at looking after us throughout the country.

After lunch I missed my bunch so had the misfortune of trying to sit on the racers which I did for about 5kms then got shot out the back of the bunch.  So hard to sit on whilst on a mountain bike which feels like half a ton of weight between your legs.

Rode into Luxor at 10.30 after riding 95kms to an amazing city.  The monuments are everywhere to see.  Today we got the chance to get access to our permanent bags, clean some clothes which stink, have a shower, first one in 6 days, who cares, I don’t, we all stink the same.  Luke, Lindsay and I went for a ride to find the Boomerang Hotel, what a blast riding a bicycle around the mad streets of Luxor.  We finally found the place, or more like fell over it as no-one speaks English, and confirmed our night’s accommodation.

Mia from the Boomerang Hotel is a young Australian lady who is fantastic and so helpful.  No sooner had I brought 8 more stragglers along, Mia had arranged a felucca ride on the Nile River at 3pm.  We all went on our cruise, just floating with the wind, having a great afternoon.  It’s amazing this journey, from riding like an idiot on a freezing morning, to riding with the racers, then floating down the Nile on a felucca, I do appreciate how fortunate I truly am.  

The night was an easy night at the local Egyptian restaurant which Mia put us onto.  The meal was good and now back to the Boomerang Hotel, some internet work and sleep in a bed and not crap in the desert for a change.

We've just been informed that we are going to Sudan next week.

Cairo to Khartoum proudly supported by the SOTO Group.