5 days of magical riding in the desert of Namibia.
3rd May 2011. Sesriem to Betta. 140kms.
After a nice rest day and visiting the canyon I was ready to get back on the bike.Breakfast has now changed from 5.15am to 6.am, now that’s getting more sensible. We headed out of camp around 6.45am for the long ride on the dirt, sand and corrugated roads of the Namibrand Reserve Namibia. I only saw one springbok today although there were signs indicating giraffe, zebra and eland. I couldn’t see a thing.
I rode with Peter for the whole day and it was a difficult day. With a fierce headwind for a good part of the morning coupled with horrendous roads, I knew this was going to be a difficult day. Each time we turned around a corner that was surrounded by spectacular mountains we could see the road going for miles into the distance. We didn’t have to climb any major hills today, mainly flat was the order of the day.
It was so tough rolling along at stages with a tailwind over the corrugated gravel roads, just finding the correct line to take would take us from one side of the road to the other. It didn’t matter what side of the road we took at times, we were belted and belted by the corrugations. They can really do your head in at times. I pushed on with Peter behind at all times. The sun was out and the plains were spectacular to see, with the grass a beautiful brownish green which went all the way to the base of the mountain. We were surrounded by mountains and vast plains all day and the colours of each mountain had it's own identity. We had a hard a ride today but it was rewarding in the end.
The lunch stop was at 78kms and it was a rewarding break from the heat of the sun. It was getting so hot today and lunch was a perfect to relax and cool down for a short time. By lunch there was a lot of people who were very tired already. I think the next 5 days is going to cause some carnage amongst the riders. We have some serious long days on some of the toughest roads of Namibia to come this week, so rest is very important at the end of a long day.
After lunch we climbed a nice hill, crested to a vista of yet another beautiful plain that went for ever into the distance. We continued on for another 35kms to the refresh stop. Because it was so hot today and the conditions were so tough the tour had a refresh stop to make sure we all enough water to get to camp at the 140km mark. I should say that at stages our speed was 13-15kph into a howling headwind, slight uphill and corrugations.
Towards the later part of the day the road flattened out and the wind was now behind us. We were cruising at a good speed and the finish flag was now in the distance. We rolled into a camp which was situated behind a petrol station in the town of Betta. I don’t think this place would even be on the map.
So I got my tent up, need to fix a slight leak in the mattress and eat dinner. I think I’ll have a good nights’ sleep for tomorrow is a MANDO day which is 150km of more dirt, sand, corrugations. Just bring it on.
4th May 2011. MANDO DAY. Betta to konkiep lapa.153kms.
Well what a Mando Day. Today we all got up around 5.15am to get ready for what was to be a very difficult day. We rolled out of camp after a light breakfast around 6.45am with of course Peter Lamond.
When we receive the rider briefing each evening, we’re told about the road conditions whether it’s sandy, gravel or corrugated. The first part of the day was rather nice gravel passing through mountains and beautiful untouched countryside. The ride to lunch was simply amazing with a road that travelled through the mountain for at 50kms was just so stunning to be in. We had plenty of climbing to do today, around 900metres, but really in this part of the world it was simple work.
Each time we reached the top of a climb we would be greeted with a road that twist around another mountain pass in front of us. We did this for 4hours until we reached the lunch truck at 80kms. I wasn’t tired at all, surprisingly.
With 2 huge sandwiches devoured in 30 minutes it was time to fill up the water bottles and hit the gravel road once again. I’m now using my camelback (backpack full of water) because one of my bottle holders broke on the silver bullet. This old bike is just about screwed.
The next stop for the day was at the town of Helmeringhausen 25kms after lunch. The road was much favourable now with a downhill until the town it took only 45minutes to do the distance on a really nice hard gravel road. We had about 10 cars pass us today. We stopped in this little town which did have a hotel but it was having renovations done to it, so we decided to stop at the local store for a nice coke and of course a chocolate ice cream. I don’t think eating this rubbish will harm me with all the riding I’m doing.
The next 50kms was a fast wind assisted ride into camp. We had a great surface to ride on, and it was basically flat. The only problem I did have was the back tyre on my bike wasn’t on properly which caused the wheel to bump every revolution. On the rough road you didn’t notice it, but on the smooth dirt it was a pain in the ass.
As soon I got to camp I was greeted by Mr Rodney Hilton Sanders who had booked a small room for Luke and I for the night. It costs around $12 AUS and it’s pretty good, and at least I won’t get wet from the huge storm that’s coming my way. As I sit in my dog house I can hear the thunder and light rain.
Luke hasn’t shown up yet, I’m told he’s gone for an extended ride with Bastion to see some friends. It’s now black outside and I don’t think it would be a good idea to be out on the bike in this weather or on these roads without lights. It maybe the case that I have the room all to myself tonight.
So it’s put the iPod on and listen to some music and not have to worry about pulling down the tent at 5.30am tomorrow morning.
Tomorrow is a 125km ride, the first 30 is good gravel and the rest is paved. How cool?
5th May 2011. Konkiep lapa to Fish River Camp. 125km.
I’m so glad I took up the room that Rodney got for me and Luke last night. Luke didn’t show up and nor did Bastion, I think I’ll probably see them later on tonight. It rained all night with plenty of tents being flooded, not Tent Hilton, that that packed away where it belongs on the truck. So I had a good night with my new room buddy, Liam. Liam is a really nice young bloke and a strong rider. I got up to pouring rain, got dressed, put on my wet weather cycling gear, had my breakfast and hit the road. Man, I hit the road.
As soon as we turned out of camp it was like hitting a road with my brakes on. The road for the 1st 30kms was all mud. We travelled in the pouring rain slipping and sliding all over the road. I kept passing people who looked like drowned rats waiting for the truck to come along so they could put their bikes on the truck. They had had enough for one day. It was pouring down as I struggled to keep the silver bullet in a straight line. I didn’t care that I was covered in mud from head to toe, I just wanted to prove to myself that I could take on the challenge and succeed. It was so hard to keep focus on the road ahead. As the trucks passed and threw out water all over me, I quickly tried to follow the tyre tracks that that they had left behind. This was the best line to take as the trucks had just compacted the sand for a short while.
To see the tar and the township at the 30km mark was a good feeling. I was drenched to the bone and looked like a kid who had just come in from playing in the mud, but I didn’t care one bit. All the cyclists stopped at the local shop and made such a mess while ordering coffee and pies. The water and mud dripped off us and onto the nice clean floor. All I can say is so what, I wasn’t in the mood to offer an apology, I was cold and wet and still had another 40kms to go before I would reach the lunch truck.
Today I rode on my own and it was a good experience to watch Namibia go bye and just dream about anything I wanted, this way my time to be on my own and reflect at times on the incredible journey I’ve undertaken and nearly accomplished.
With the assistance of a strong side/tail wind I made it to lunch by 10.30am. With a quick lunch, I was back on the bike to complete the 125km challenge. The rest of the day was at times a strong headwind with long climbs. The surrounding mountains were once again simply stunning. If I was a geologist I would be in heaven in this part of the world. I could see layers of rock on each mountain that was so close to the road was just amazing.
As we got about 20kms away from camp we crested through the mountain range to yet another incredible sight of the Namibian plains. We roared down the mountain and within no time we were off the road and on the dirt for the final 2kms to the hotel on the Fish River. We got a room for 4 of us in this hotel that looks like a castle. The room is really spacious with a loft for 2 of the guys to use. I’m sleeping downstairs.
So I got to have a nice hot shower and put some dry clean (NOT) clothes on and soon we’ll be called for the rider meeting than dinner. I’m having a ball and so happy to be challenged the way I was challenged today and survive where many stopped.
Tomorrow is 108kms on dirt road, no pavement and I hope the road dries out from all the rain this place is receiving. The rainfall in Namibia is 4 times greater so far this year than any other year since recordings have been taken. Now that’s a lot of rain.
I’ve got 2 more hard days of riding before we reach Felix Unit and a well deserved rest day.
6th May 2011. Seeheim Hotel to Canon Roadhouse Hotel. 95kms.
Thank God we didn’t get any rain last night otherwise we would have been in a lot of trouble. Both Peter and I left the hotel around 7am t take some photos and commence the ride to the roadhouse lodge.
The road was just like yesterday other than with no rain. The roads were still muddy in places with gravel and sand and although it was tiresome by the end of the day, we did manage to get into camp by 1pm.
The lunch truck and all the vehicles had t take a detour due to Fish River breaking it’s banks. We had to backtrack and go over the railway bridge to get through. The scenery was the same as yesterday with mountains following us all the way to the camp.
Tomorrow we have a MANDO day of 170kms of more gravel and sand on our way to Felix Unit a campsite which Peter says is quite impressive. Luke and I have a cabin at the place so I’ll get a chance to do my washing for the last time this holiday. Not that I need to clean my clothes after hundreds of kms each week.
The racers are just about ready to call it quits and as the first 3 places are just about set in concrete. The race will continue of course, but this will allow other riders who are not as fast to have the chance to win a stage. Even though I wouldn’t class myself as a racer I’m so happy to have secured a stage win on this tour.
So once again the campsite we’re staying in is pretty cool with mountains surrounding the campsite and tents placed side by side. If this happened at a campsite in Australia all hell would break loose. We actually sleep about 1 metre away from each other, so we can hear people snore, fart, burp and anything else that could possibly occur in ones tent.
So its goodnight once again as we get closer to South Africa in 3 days time.
7th May 2011. Canon roadhouse to Felix Unite Campsite on the Orange River, Namibia. 175kms.
Today both Peter and I had decided to get ready nice and early for the long day ahead. I woke at around 5.10am giving me plenty of time to pack Tent Hilton, have breakfast and be on the road by 6.30am.
We rolled out onto the dirt road for yet another day of fine conditions. The road was a nice surface of gravel and sand mixed together. The first 13kms was backtracking from yesterday over some really fast surface. We then turned off and commenced a section of spectacular countryside. With rolling hills and some decent climbs we meandered our way through mountains of the Namibian Desert to come eventually come out to a ridge that led 10kms downhill to the lunch truck at the 85km mark.
Although I had started to ride with Peter at the beginning of the day I left Peter around the 40km mark and decided to push on through the mountains.
I met up with young Andrea and rode with him to the 60km when he decided to stop for a pee break and one of those PVM bars. We get a box of PVM bars during each section to help us along the way. I don’t mind them actually, although plenty of cyclists are not keen on them at all.
I rolled into the lunch stop at 10.30am which was a pretty good time considering the mountain we had to go through. I should mention that some sections before lunch were really corrugated to pieces and deep sandy patches due to the enormous amount of rain in the past few weeks.
The scenery was once again simply stunning. Now we had the mountains to the west of us all day. They were like an orangey brownish colour like iron ore although I know nothing about geology. I met up with Luke at the lunch stop and he waited for me to have something to eat so we could ride the remaining 85kms together. This meant I was going to be in serious pain for the next 3 hours.
The ride out of lunch would take us through the sandy deserts for the next 50kms before we finally hit pavement for the first time in quite a while.
The sandy road was like nothing we had experienced before, with a car width path, no edges, just sand and more sand that twisted through the desert. If you were out here in the summer and took the wrong turn, you would simply die.
We rely on TDA to mark our path from start to finish each day, and at this stage, they’re doing a marvellous job in getting the circus from one campsite to the next. From the time we left lunch to the time we arrived at Felix Unite campsite and lodges it was a roaring headwind, sandy desert, and the occasional deep section that really made us work. Luke like usual was the powerhouse all afternoon, and I helped out doing turns as much as I could. We hit the tarmac at the 135km mark and still the wind was hitting us square in the face. I was stuffed every time I hit the front, and the speed dropped from 27km to 25kph.
As we approached the final 5km we got a glimpse of the Orange River and the campsite. We rolled down into the campsite and went straight to the bar for a nice cold drink. After a drink, it was time to order a hamburger and chips and yet another drink. The lodge overlooks the river and is just a great place to sit down and chill out with the river right in front of us.
The room we have is enormous, Luke has 2 single beds in his room and I have a King size bed. From our table and chair outside the cabin we can see up the Orange River for mile. Tomorrow is a rest day, which means doing nothing other than resting, washing dirty clothes and updating the website.
We’re now about 10kms away from the South African border, and on Monday we commence the final leg of the ultimate cycle journey on earth, Cairo to Cape town 2011. We have 6 more days of riding, some on tar and some on dirt. I don’t really care what the conditions will be like over the next couple of days because the next rest day after tomorrow will be the rest of my life.
So from Namibia it’s goodbye and welcome to South Africa on Monday 9th May 2011.
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