Special people.

Walking the ruins in Idfu with good friend Andrea.

My computer guru, Rambala@tamil tiger.

There's a prize if you can guess who owns this ass.

A picture paints a thousand words.,

Riding out of Gondar, Ethiopia.  Some of the kids came to say goodbye.

My 96yr old grandmother.  You've made the big time now Doris.

One of my proud sponsors.  Thank you Peter.

One special young lady from the school we helped with clothing and books

These special people are from eXsight Tandems.  This is what my journey is all about.

I thought I'd add some photos of special people. My rest days in Arusha are nearly over, and soon it will be time to hit the road again.  Unfortunately it's now raining and that's not good news considering the next 800km is on dirt roads.

this will not happen at home.

16th March 2011. Rest Day Arusha, Karama Lodge and Spa.

Where it all began on the 15th January.

The usual scene each afternoon after a long day in the saddle.  Tent Hilton.

Valley of the kings was amazing.

Riding the sandy Nubian Desert, Sudan

Some really nice kids in Egypt.

The lodge is so nice to relax in.  I had a nice breakfast at an hour that I can only describe as sensible, 8am.

It was so nice to sleep in, and not be woken by zippers of tents and people farting at 5 in the morning.  After breakfast I took a trip down into Arusha and had a look around.  I did remember some of the streets and certainly the clock tower in the centre of town sticks out.  

We found a nice coffee and cake shop and relaxed out of the way of the hordes of people wanting us to buy a trip to the crater or another African T-shirt to add to my other 352 shirts. 

We had a go on the net and spoke to Matt and Graciella back home, it appears the house is still standing and my dogs still alive. 

We got a lift back to the Masai camp where the other cyclists who decided not to stay in a hotel or go on a safari were staying.  It was like a morgue, nothing much happening at all.  I can tell you there’s no way I’m going to stay in my smelly tent for 3 days (the half way point of the tour) when I can sit around a pool and sleep in a monstrous bed.

Back up the hill to the lodge for an afternoon of hanging around the pool and reading my book called ‘Fatherland’.  It’s an amazing book you should read sometime. The meals at the lodge are fantastic and the service is great. I thought I would add some photos taken over the past 2 months that I thought would interest you.  I have another 2 rest days of sitting around recovering before the long push south.

I'm having coffee delivered to my shack tomorrow morning to have on the balcony.  Can't do that in Tent Hilton.

The road to Tanzania. Full update..

14^TH March 2011. 160kms. Nairobi to Tanzanian border. Namango

After having a fantastic pizza and then going over to the cafe for a huge cappuccino and a slab of black forest cake, it was time to go back to the camp and back my locker again.  I have so much shit that I haven’t used on this holiday, you’d think I’d know better after so much traveling in the past.  Obviously I haven’t learnt a thing.

It also poured down last night and the tent stood up to the storm. Because we had a long day on the bike, breakfast was served at 6am.  That meant I had to drag my ass out of the tent at 5.30am.  I know I said I’m getting use to 5.45am, but 5.30am, that’s stupid for a old man from the land down under.

Peter Lamond and I headed out at 7am for the 20km ride from the campsite in Karen to the outskirts of Nairobi.  Basically the traffic was mad and on many occasions we had to get off the road in fear of being run over by the many trucks and buses that were taking this route.  We rode through a couple of interesting towns which I really love doing, with all the donkey carts, kids going to school and calling out to us, not throwing rocks at us like the Ethiopian kids did on a daily basis, and turned off to hit the back roads for the nest 30kms to meet up with the main highway that leads to Namango the border crossing into Tanzania.

The back road was light on traffic and light on road repairs.  This was another one of those roads littered with potholes so big you could lose yourself in.  We pedalled along at a good pace through some beautiful countryside with some of the most green landscape and amazing Acacia trees all the way to the lunch stop at 72kms.

The lunch today was excellent, turkey meat, with cheese, tomato, bread slices, bananas and some power drinks.  After 2 huge sandwiches Peter, Rodney and myself were back on the bike for the final 80kms.  The road was really nice fast pavement all the way to the end of the day.  With rolling hills, Rodney eventfully fell off the pace and had to ride the final 30kms on his own.  It’s really difficult to ride the pace of some because when hills are involved, some people are not as fast as others, and you can’t wait when you have 160kms to do in the day.

We didn’t stop for any coke stops or coffee as we needed to get into camp, pitch the tent and dry out some of our stuff that happened to get wet from the downpour last night.  Today was a terrific day, and I’m looking forward to leaving Kenya and entering another country on this amazing journey through Africa.

To my family, 60 more cycling days to go before Cape Town.  To my sponsors;

SOTO GROUP.

RAMBOR

SPEARMANS CYCLES

COTTONWOOD LODGE

And all the people that have donated to eXsight Tandems and attended my fundraising night, I am eternally indebted to you for kind support.  

PS:  I think I’ll be going to see David of Spearman’s Cycles when I get back to get a new bike.

Please support the companies of the Illawarra that support this cause. 

Tanzania here I come.

15^th March 2011. Namango to Arusha Tanzania.  118kms.

The circus moves onto another country.  Number 5 is now upon us, Tanzania.  With the ungodly breakfast time of 6am I’m awake, packed up Tent Hilton and waiting to devour bread, honey and peanut butter, washed down with a bowl of porridge and a cup of tea.  I’m ready for a fantastic ride.

The border crossing is 3km away from camp so a lot of cyclists took off early to try and beat the rush of the other 80 cyclists and staff to follow.  I didn’t give a shit, I’d crossed this border with Josh in 2004 and I knew that it would be a wait.

The first part of the day was on gravel until the border.  Like usual there were money changes trying to give you the bargain of the century with the rate in one hand while they were ready to shaft you with the other.  I left it for the money exchange booth at the border.  I don’t know who’s the bigger thief the official or the unofficial exchanges. We waited a while for the passports to be handed back and then we were on our way.  By the time I’d changed my money and made a quick call to Matthew back home I was on my way and at the end of the peloton.  I was dead last leaving Kenya.  At least I knew no one was going to overtake me today.

So it was time to power on and catch up with some of my mates who were a long way ahead of me.  I caught up with Peter Lamond and his wife Viv (lovely lady) and rode with them for about ½ an hour.  I can tell you, Viv is one fast rider.  Very impressed, she can even kick Peter’s ass without a problem.

The landscape was so spectacular and I know I often say this even though I’ve seen it all before.  To ride with acacia trees, small villages, and beautiful young children waving with the most gorgeous smiles, green fields, men and women wearing their traditional Masai clothing, I was in heaven today.

I arrived at the 70km lunch stop at 10.30am, so that wasn’t too bad doing the 70kms in 2 & ½ hours on the steel monster.  Took some great photos of mountains with me in them of course at the lunch stop before heading off for the final push to Arusha.

The first part was uphill for 10kms then the rest was easy to the hustle & bustle of a city I know rather well.  As I was heading down one hill I did something really stupid, I drafted a small jeep to get some good speed.  As he moved over to the centre of the road, I thought he was moving for some rocks, so I immediately slowed as best as I could.  There can be nothing scarier than seeing a dead dog appear from out the middle of the back of the jeep as it goes over the dog.  I had very little time to miss the dog, so I had to jump the front wheel over the dog and the bag wheel just crashed into it.  I thought I was going down like a bag of shit.  I kept the bike up and ended up with a buckle in my new rear wheel.  The buckle isn’t that bad considering how fast I was travelling when I hit the dog.

So, did I learn a lesson, NO WAY, I need to know how to jump my bike and I’d have no problem.  

Reminder: Must see Luke Dale for handling skills when I get home.

Still roaring downhill I hit the gravel section for the final 10km s into town.  The traffic was again mad as hell and many times you just have to watch the cars in front rather than the ones coming from behind.  I rolled into camp after completing the 118kms at 1pm.  Had a quick shower and put up the tent for Peter and Viv, got my gear together and headed off to the Karama lodge and spa in Arusha.  Check it out on the net, lovely place to relax and do nothing other than recuperate after thrashing my body over 5,500kms in 2 months.  

I didn't get a chance last week to post.  First stood under this sign in 1994.

getting ready to leave Nairobi and head to the Tanzanian border, with a fantastic guy called Peter Lamond.

 

Ready to enter my 5th country and over 5500kms

Lunch stop amongst some spectacular scenery. Tanzania

My room at Karama lodge & Spa Arusha Tanzania.  Absolutely beautiful.

The lodge is fantastic and I’m staying here with some really nice people from the tour.  When we got to the lodge we immediately went to the restaurant and ate ourselves silly.  They must be amazed at the huge appetite us cyclists have.  I have a huge bed, balcony, no TV, just the perfect place to chill. 

It’s so nice to get to Arusha to have 3 days off the bike.  Many cyclists are going on camping tours to the Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park for 2 and 3 days.  As I’ve done the tours before I didn’t want to do it again.  Tomorrow I’m going to go down town do some shopping, buy a sim card, maybe the net, and have coffee and cake.  So until tomorrow, I’m sleeping in, that means no Rodney waking me up at 5.20am, thank God.

Tanzania

Hi All,

Just a quick update on whats been happening over the past 2 days.

My dad has left Nairobi and on his way to Tanzania Border. He did 160km's leading up to this and he was feeling really good. He got new wheels and is having no problems.The traffic out of Nairobi was madness with trucks and buses were everywhere for the first 20kms out of Nairobi.Rolling hills,amazing acacia tree's,zebra's,giraffes featured on the way to camp.

Dad was waiting to get his passport back as he prepares to enter Tanzania and ride 115km to arurha  which should be a nice slow ride and then relax for 3 days.The temperate was pleasant today but it will get very hot over the coming days.

the end of meltdown madness. Now in the Nairobi.

Having a good time at Carnivores in Nairobi.

the next 2 days that will take us into Tanzania and 3 rest days.

10^th March 2011. Isiolo to Nanyuki. 72kms.

After the mess of yesterday the TDA decided to have a no race day.  We all rolled out onto the highway and headed to the town of Nanyuki some 72kms away.  The first part of the day went uphill.  A climb of 1000metres over 20kms.  It was amazing to see the valley floor disappearing as we climbed and climbed to the coke stop.  The homes are now starting to have tin roofs and the people are not calling out as much for water, food or money.  It looks like we are going into a more civilised part of Africa.

At the coke stop I bought a wristband which  should probably last about a week knowing how good they make things in this part of the world.  Doesn’t matter, it looks good and that’s the main thing.

After the coke stop it was a steeper climb to the 40km lunch stop.  The mountains we were climbing were covered in little plots of lands trying to sprout enough food to feed a small family and to make an extra dollar in the process.  As got closer and closer to the summit the mighty Mt Kenya started to appear in the distance.  To see the peak with snow upon it and reliving the time back in 2004 when Josh and I climbed it was such a good feeling.  We rode around the base of the mountain for  the rest of the day.  

As soon as we reached the 40km mark the lunch truck appeared in the distance.  With the backdrop of Mt Kenya looming over us at lunch it was nice to sit on my own and just dream about the time we had so many years ago.

The ride into the Sportman's Arms Hotel Nanyuki was fabulous.  A downhill stretch of 30kms all the way into town.  It took 45mins to cover the distance.  Luke had got in earlier than me and booked a waiting for dinner to be ready.

After dinner it was back to my nice bed in a hotel room and just crash.

11^th March 2011. Nanyuki to Sagana.  Mike Savage Camp 105kms.

To describe this day in simple terms is quite easy.  Left the hotel for a convoy ride down to the equator sign for some photos and then it’s on our way to Sagana. I rode all day with Dr Garry and we made good time.  The ride was smooth road, beautiful green fields of banana, corn, maize, colonial homes from the past, mini vans in the thousands, diesel spewing vehicles, coffee stops, coke stops, more beautiful winding dirt roads leading into the mountains and soon we were arriving at the camp site.

The campsite is situated on the Tana River with a swimming pool, showers, a bar, and plenty of green grass to pitch my tent. Today was a really nice ride, the weather was really kind to us today.

Tomorrow is pretty special because we’re heading to the capital of Kenya, Nairobi.  This was the half way point on my previous cycle journey with Josh in 2004.  The ride will be 135kms and we have to have a long convoy into the town of Karen, (famous for out of Africa, Karen Blixen) because going through the heart of mad Nairobi would be downright stupid.  So a nice ride at a leisurely pace is on the menu for  tomorrow.

12^th March 2011.  Sagana to Nairobi. 135kms, shortened to dangerous traffic conditions.

Today the director changed the length of the day from 135kms to 55km due to the dangerous road conditions and road works between Nanyuki and the capital.  We stopped after a nice morning and waited for all the other cyclists to arrive, load the trucks with bikes and make the pain staking slow journey to the Indaba Camp in the suburb of Karen.

Tomorrow is a rest day, but first we’re going out for dinner at the famous Carnivore’s where you can eat all sorts of meat.  

13^th March 2011. Rest Day, in Nairobi.

Peter Lamond and I got up and headed off to the Masai Markets in down town Nairobi.  The place was just the way I left it in 2004 when traveling through with Josh.  After buying some nice Masai blankets and being harassed by every man and his dog to buy something, we were back on the bus and heading back to the camp to re pack the truck and get ready for the long ride tomorrow to the Tanzanian border town of Namango.

Tonight I’m going out for dinner with Peter and his wife and Peter’s sons partner.  Pizza is on the menu. 

Cyclists held at gun point and robbed by bandits in Northern Kenya.

9^th March 2011. The day all hell breaks loose in northern Kenya.

This is a day that will stand with Tour d Afrique for years to come.  We headed out of camp around 6.30am for a 158km ride to a camp just outside of the town of Isiolo northern Kenya.  The first coke stop was planned for the 45km mark.  I made it to the coke stop with Rodney and met many other cyclists.

I headed off with Andrea, Lindsay and Peter Prince.  We just took it easy all the way to the lunch stop at the 80km mark.  When we arrived at the lunch stop we were advised that a serious incident had occurred up the road just before the 45km coke stop to 5 cyclists.

Briefly one girl was asked to stop by some individuals, she refused, had some roc ks thrown at her, one struck her, a spear was thrown at her and missed her and then a gunshot was heard.  Cyclists then regrouped.

A short time later 2 of the girls decided to go in the bushes for a toilet stop, the men waited on the side of the road.  They then heard gun shots and screaming.  The girls came running out from the bushes with the bandits in tow.

They fired some shots and got all the cyclists to lay on the road and then robbed them at gunpoint.  One lady was struck to the head with the rifle, another got hit with the but to the head, one of the men got struck to the rib area with the mouth of the rife.  All there cycling gear was stolen, money, wallets, cameras, the bladder of the camel pack water devices.

The bandits then fled into the bushes.  Eventually the TDA staff were notified and the police and military got involved.  I didn’t know anything about it until the lunch stop but I did rec all seeing about 4 military trucks full with officers heading  in the direction I had just come from.  To think I had passed these decrepit morons on my ride to the 45km coke stop turns your stomach.  Now one of the guys that were robbed is a former soldier and I know that given a chance the situation could have been very different.  Besides the scratches and mental pain everyone has arrived safe back to camp.  The gates to the compound are now closed and we have a military guard on the front gate.  There have been incidents of robbing on this road in the year’s gone bye but we all take a risk riding these roads. 

I ended up riding 80kms and then got on the truck with a military guy in the front guarding the rest of the journey.  I think this could be a big problem when it hits the press.  People have already sent it out on facebook and via tweeter.  I’d hate to be those robbers when the law catches up with them as I know from previous travels to Africa, that this shit will not be tolerated by the authorities when it involves tourists.

Time to go and have some dinner and get ready to take on another exciting day on the road to Cape Town. 

the military protected the camp during lunch and escorted the truck till we were safe

Taking a rest with Mt Kenya in the background.  That's the mountain Josh and I climbed in 2004.  This is from today's ride into the town of Nanyuki.  A free ride day due to yesterdays attack.

At no stage do I cast any blame on Tour D Afrique for what happened today.  We had been advised prior to entering Kenya that this has happened in the past, and every book I’ve read is clear on this point. TDA had made contact with the Kenya wildlife service in Moyale, Marsabit and were given the all clear to continue on through this part of the country.